8/13/2018

Twill and plain

Because I know myself pretty well, I knew I'd spend most of my summer holidays working on new designs. Therefore, I made a conscious decision in the spring that I would take a little holiday from designing before my actual holidays. Just enough to knit one sweater with someone else's pattern. 


How: Circular needles 2.5, 3.5 and 4.0 mm
From: Madelinetosh Merino Light (and a few meters of Skein Queen Crush), 430 g

What else would a knitwear designer idolize except of course other designers? For the longest time, I've been admiring a Polish designer, Marzena Kolaczek on Instagram. She knits with other designers' patterns, designs her own patterns, writes a knitting blog (in Polish but Google translate works quite well here), has a yarn shop, and to top it all off, dyes her own yarns as well. Not to mention that there's the husband who really knows what he's doing with the camera. And to add to all this, our knitwear aesthetics are really similar. As you can probably tell, I'm quite the fan girl.


I've been dreaming of making one of her designs for quite some time already. So once I made the decision to take a little break from designing, I knew who's design to pick. And one of Marzena's most recent designs, the Twill and plain pullover had been calling my name loud and clear. Luckily, I've switched from buying lonesome sock yarns to buying sweater quantities, so I did have enough yarn in my stash - four skeins of Madelinetosh Merino Light. As I was packing for a work trip in the middle of the night, there wasn't an opportunity to go shopping for new yarn. I tell you, having a stash of 30 kg is the best thing!


This project was super interesting but I wouldn't call it relaxing holiday knitting. Nu-uh. But I'm the type of knitter that enjoys challenges.


The sweater started with working the front piece from side to side to achieve the gorgeous twill texture. This sweater was kind of a combination of weaving and knitting. The weaved-like texture was done with slipped stitches, slipping with the yarn in front. And, there was the extra challenge of slipping stitches also on the wrong side - this time with the yarn in back. And, of course to achieve the chevron pattern, the placement of the slipped stitches was constantly changing. Doesn't sound very relaxing now does it? Well, it wasn't but it was amazing in so many other ways.


Once the front panel was finished, stitches were picked up to continue knitting upwards shaping the neckline at the same time. This part was worked in linen stitch, so more slipped stitches with the yarn in front.


The shoulders were shaped with short rows and the back of the sweater was plain vanilla, stockinette stitch. Actually, the pattern instructed to join the back and front only at the hem but I figured a few more challenges wouldn't be too bad. So, I calculated rough estimates for my tension in the front piece twill texture and the stockinette from the shoulders, and figured out how often I should work the edge stitches together. I'm all for 'join as you go'  instead of 'work 40 cm of stockinette stitch straight'. Every time you pause to measure, it's  a mystery: first you're missing 10 cm but then you work a few rows and measure again, and now you're missing 11 cm. I like how joining as you go shows the progress you're making. Plus, I hate seaming.



Once I finished the part requiring concentration, the marathon begun. Because, a folded hem requires twice as much ribbing as a regular hem. And that's not all folks: the hem was sewn into place. During another work trip, I spent 5 hours at Edinburgh airport sewing the sweater hem while waiting for  my plane which happened to be 5 hours late. And hey, I hear you, why didn't I just do a regular ribbing or use three needle bind off? Well.. If I'm totally honest, it was precisely these lovely folded cuffs and hem that made me want to have this piece in my wardrobe. And, I've tried the three needle bind off with folded hems but it easily gets too tight and this sweater really needed to be loose and relaxed. So, it was a ton of work but totally worth it. The only thing that bothered me a bit was that there were no instructions on how long a tail I should cut for the sewing. I measured a tail three times round the hem but still it run out just a few cm before finishing.


And just as I was finishing the sleeves, I got to play yarn chicken and lost. Even though, Tosh Merino Light skeins are almost always over weight, I still ran out of yarn. Of course, I had bought the skeins years ago and my LYS didn't have this color at the moment. Also, with hand dyed yarn, the colors can vary quite a bit between dye lots, and I had no intention on waiting for a month or so to finish this sweater. Alas, a stroke of luck: my LYS amazingly had almost the exact same color in a totally different yarn base by a totally different dyer, and I was saved. It was a bit irritating to start the backup skein just for the last two rows of the second sleeve and the neckband but I'm sure I'll find something to knit with the rest of it.




Now, what did we learn from all of this? A) I don't advertise myself being a masochist knitter for nothing as I really seem to enjoy challenges even with my holiday knitting. B) Different stitch patterns can eat up surprising amounts of yarn. C) Apparently, even this queen of uncolors can feel at home in colorful knits. D) What a gorgeous sweater! Truly, I have to say, this marathon post isn't intended as complaints of any kind. The length of the post is due to this being the most interesting project in a while. This wasn't a mindless TV knit but I enjoyed it immensely, and now I have this lovely merino armor to keep me warm once the sweater weather hits.

8/10/2018

Mystery for the fall

I have some super exciting news! Scrap yarn sock yarn advent calendar was the most popular thing on this blog and one of my favorite things as well. Back then, the blog was only in Finnish but the calendar was in both languages. And now, I'm kind of getting back to those roots releasing my very first shawl mystery knit-a-long.


The idea is to have a shawl KAL which will last for about a month. But the design is a total mystery to you all. But if I may say so myself, it's pretty awesome!


The pattern is up for graps on Raverly from here on out. For now, there's only a pdf including all the prior information you will need: needle size, yardage and so on. And then, on Wednesday September 12th, you will get the first clue.

Most shawl MKALs have four to five clues that are updated once a week. Shake it up is a bit different. The shawl has 13 clues and the alloted time depends on the amount of knitting that's needed to complete each clue. The schedule for the clues is the following:
    1st clue: September 12th
    2nd clue: September 14th
    3rd clue: September 15th
    4th clue: September 16th
    5th clue: September 18th
    6th clue: September 20th
    7th clue: September 23rd
    8th clue: September 25th
    9th clue: September 27th
    10th clue: September 29th
    11th clue: October 4th
    12th clue: October 8th
    13th clue: October 12th
      You can join in on the chat at Where we once knitted Ravelry group where there'll be individual threads for each clue. You can also share your progress on social media with the tags #wwokmkal #shakeitupmkal.

      So you'd like to know something about the design and the yarns needed? I'm not saying a word about the shawl but I can tell you that you'll need US 4 (3.5 mm) or US 5 (3.75 mm) circular needles. You will need fingering weight yarn in three colors, one skein each. If you're worried about the yardage, don't be: there will be information in the pattern after each clue about how much of each color you should have left. I'd recommend going for three different colors but such that they have something in common - speckles for example.

      And I haven't even told you the best part! I teamed up with two Finnish indie dyers. ikke yarns and lanitium ex machina have promised to dye three skein sets especially for Shake it up shawl. The sets will be in their webshops on the first week of September.





      Who's in?

      8/03/2018

      Lauha

      Exciting things happening in the world of yarn: A Finnish yarn shop started making a new yarn, a single ply fingering weight finnsheep yarn - handdyed as well. Of course, I had to get a sweater quantity right away. Now, my only regret is that I only got one sweater quantity to start with since I fell head over heels in love with the yarn. I also designed a sweater pattern for it.


      What: Lauha / Own pattern
      How: Circular needle 3.5 mm
      From: Suoma Single, 215 + 10 g
      https://www.ravelry.com/projects/NeulistiMNK/lauha

      I've heard a few times from my fellow knitters that I have really romantic style when it comes to knits. This time I'm owning up to that style. I knew right away that I wanted to design a delicate, gentle sweater with contrast color lace trimmings. The name of the design also means something gentle. Lauha is a Finnish word for the gentle warmer weather in the spring that makes the snow melt.



      Lauha is classic Henley sweater, the kind with buttons in front. The sleeves are a combination of saddle shoulders and raglan sleeves. The sweater is worked top down and it all starts with making two shoulder flaps from which to pick up stitches for the body that is worked in one piece.


      Lauha is first worked flat because of the front opening but once the button bands are done, the rest of the body is worked in the round. The sleeves are extra long on purpose and the cuffs and the hem have a few rows of garter stitch and a picot bind off.



      Once the main color sweater is finished, you will pick up sts from the wrong side of the hem and cuffs and work a few rows of easy and pretty lace in a contrast color.



      Lauha is designed for the new Suoma Single by Kässäkerho Pom Pom which they kindly sponsored for this design work. Their web shop is in Finnish but if you'd like to try the yarn, just send them email and they'll help you out in English. I have to tell you the yarn is awesome. I've tried finnsheep yarns before but never single ply. It's woolly yet so soft. And, I'm in love with these powdery handdyed colors.


      The fingering weight Suoma is also light as air. My finished sweater doesn't weight even 250 grams! If you make your Lauha sweater in some other yarn, you might need more yarn as this one is a special case being so light. For me, this yarn instantly jumped to my top5 favorite yarns and I'll be needing plenty more sweaters in it. Their yarn stock is limited at the moment but right now, this Friday, they're having a web shop update with more Suoma Single in it.


      As for the sweater pattern, you can find it on Ravelry. It has my usual nine sizes, XXS-XS-S [M1-M2-L1] L2-XL-XXL, and the pattern is available in both English and Finnish. I recommend you choose a size with 2'' / 5 cm positive ease at the bust.


      During this weekend, you can get a 25 % discount by using the the code SUOMA in your Ravelry shopping cart.

      7/06/2018

      100% awesome

      This spring, I visited Edinburgh Yarn Festival for the fist time. One of my treasured purchases is available at the Jyväskylä knit fest market place this weekend. So, now is the perfect time to publish a pattern for that yarn.

      What: Dre / Own pattern
      How: Circular needle 3.75 mm
      From: Walcot Yarns Opus, 350 g
       Ravelryssa

      I fell in love with the yarn at the market place and had to cast on the same night. The yarn was very chatty and told me it definitely wanted to become a boyfriend cardigan with some crisp finishing toutches.


      I was in such a rush, there was no time for swatching. And I got quite far the next day before it became obvious I really should have swatched. But hey, there I had a pretty big swatch so I got my tension and recalculated the whole thing. And this time it worked.



      Dre is a boyfriend cardigan with V-neckline. The sleeves are a fun hybrid of saddle shoulders and raglan sleeves. Usually, for saddle shoulders you would first knit the shoulder separately but I designed this so that you work it all in one piece right from the beginning.


      The design has lots of lovely details. My favorite thing are this mock seams at the shoulders and the sides. The shoulder seams meet at the underarm and twist together in  a little cable pattern to continue as one for the sides. The seams can be a bit tight before blocking but should open up nicely wit soaking.

      The long hem has a rounded slit and decent sized pockets. The pocket edges, hem and cuffs have a few rows of crisp looking broken rib.


      Finally, you'll pick up stitches from the fronts and back of the neck to work the button band. It's shaped with short rows to be a bit wider at the center. The whole thing is topped off with i-cord bind off, during which you'll make the button holes. The cardigan got its name from these gorgeous moose buttons I also found at Edinburgh Yarn Fest. Dre means moose in Albanian.


      And the yarn! It was new to me. Walcot Yarns Opus is a gorgeous and soft. The label says it's 70% Falkland merino, 30% Baby alpaca and 100% awesome. And it really is!




      And the best thing is that today and tomorrow you can find Walcot Yarns with Opus at Jyväskylä Knit Festival. Come see Dre cardigan at their booth while you're choosing your colors. You can get the pattern with 20 % discount with the code OPUS until Tuesday July 7th.

      6/30/2018

      Crooked toes

      Sometimes you need something truly mindless knitting, such as plain vanilla socks with a self-striping yarn. You know, something you can knit at the movies. And if you happen to be me, you might just want to complicate that.


      How: Circular needle 2.25 mm
      From: Petrichor Yarns HT Stripes, 65 g
       Ravelryssa

      Yep. I searched for a pattern that will make the stripes go all wonky. Cause otherwise it would have been too easy to knit these at the movies.


      The pattern is fun and works well - although, it doesn't exactly make for good movie knitting since everything exciting happpens right away. The socks are worked toe up and the toes are shaped with lots of short rows. The cast on edge is somewhere along the side of the big toe.



      Once the toes are nice and crooked, the rest of the socks are a breeze to knit. I didn't really need the pattern after the toes but figured it would be fun to follow a pattern for once. So I worked the short row heel as instructed and finally memorized how to do shadow wraps. It remains a mystery why the toes were worked with German short rows and the heel with shadow wraps but it was good training and I found that I much more prefer the shadow wraps. They work better with my gauge. So I'll stick to those in the future.



      I worked the leg such that the second sock would start with different colors. I'm very much non-symmetry. I finished off the socks with few rounds of twisted ribbing.


      I have another self-striping yarn in my stash. We'll see if I finally manage to work plain vanilla with it.

      6/25/2018

      Flying Donegal

      Spring was super busy for me as a designer but oh how nice it is now to have all these patterns ready for publishing.


      What: Flying Donegal / Own pattern
      How: Circular needle 3.5 mm
      From: Genuine Soft Donegal by Lentävä Lapanen, 350 g
      https://www.ravelry.com/projects/NeulistiMNK/flying-donegal

      The story of this cardigan began last year. Just before Christmas I was visiting a lovely LYS, Lentävä Lapanen (the Flying Mitten) with my trunk show for my very first e-book The Girl Who Said Baa. The lovely shop keepers asked me if I would like to design something for their very own Soft Donegal yarn.


      I really wanted to keep things simple for a change. Easy raglan sleeves, stockinette stitch, and a few cables to keep the knitting interesting.

      Desinging, or at least doing the math, always begins with a swatch. I worked a small swatch of plain stockinette stitch and let it soak for a while. Oh boy, what a surprise the yarn gave me! Soft Donegal is a single ply merino yarn with tweed. It's soft and rustic at the same time. But once you soak it, all the twist in the yarn vanishes. The yarn opens up completely turning the knitted fabric into this soft velvet thing. I was in love and in a hurry to knit my sample cardigan!


      So I did design this simple piece with raglan sleeves. There are three cables in the back and the rest of the cardigan is stockinette stitch - with the purl side on top. 


      The cardigan is worked flat back and forth except for the sleeves which are worked in the round. If you hate purling, you can easily work the sleeves inside out and just knit them all the way.


      The cuffs and hem are garter stitch. It doesn't stand out much, it's just a bit fuller than the stockinette stitch. A nice, subtle effect. The cardigan is finished with a shawl collar. Flying Donegal is meant be worn open or with a shawl pin. Although, it would be really easy to add button holes while working the shawl collar.



      You can find the pattern with all of its nine sizes, XXS-XS-S [M1-M2-L1] L2-XL-XXL, on Ravelry. And you can get 20 % off the price with the code FLYDONEGALFLY until July 7th. Choose your size with approx. 4''/10 cm positive ease.



      The yarn was sponsored by Lentävä Lapanen and we took the pics at one of my favorite places on earth, Kotka, Sapokka.