Next up is one of my personal favorites, Thistle cardigan.
How: Circular needles 3.25, 3.5 and 3.75 mm
From: Tukuwool Fingering, 330 g
I'm the type of knitter that gets bored really easily. I can't stand endless amounts of stockinette or garter stitch. And so, I really truly love this cardigan I designed for the book as there's constantly something interesting happening.
Thistle is traditional and stunning, all in one.
This is a boxy cardigan with colorwork all over. It's worked seamlessly top-down. It's got long, close-fitting sleeves and a loose, boxy body without waist shaping. The shoulders are shaped with short rows.
The cardigan is worked in the round and both the front and arm holes are cut open once the body is finished. The cardigan is finished off with a shawl collar.
The cardigan will look a funny shape at the beginning of the project because after shaping the back shoulders, you will pick up stitches for the fronts, shape the front shoulders and then join in the round, casting on steek stitches between the fronts and between the front and back.
The rest of the body is worked in the round. While working the body, you will be increasing stitches at the front edges to shape the V-neck.
Once the body is finished, you will work the shawl collar and then cut the front open. Finally, you will steek the arm holes and pick up stitches to work the sleeves in the round.
Since the cardigan has an all-over colorwork pattern, I recommend taking bigger needles for the sleeves. Many knitters have a tighter gauge when working sleeves in the round and this can be pronounced when working stranded knitting.
The colorwork pattern has a traditional feeling and with three colors, it's quite stunning. Yet, there are no rounds with all three colors, making this a relaxed colorwork project. The exciting part is with all the steeks.
You can find all the info on the design below. Some of the photos were taken by Laine for the booka and some we snapped ourselves last summer.
Size
XXS-XS-S [M-L-XL] 2XL-3XL-4XL-5XL
This cardigan is meant to be worn
with positive ease. Choose a size with approx. 6’’ / 15 cm positive ease at bust
circumference.
Finished measurements
Bust and waist
circumference: 35.25-38.5-41.5 [44.75-48-51.25] 57.5-60.75-64-70.5’’ / 88-96-104
[112-120-128] 144-152-160-176 cm
Yarn
Tukuwool Fingering (100% Finnish
wool, 2-ply, 195 m / 50 g), or other fingering weight yarn. Shown in colors
Runo (C1), Selja (C2) and Sake (C3).
4-4-4 [5-5-6] 6-7-7-8 skeins of C1,
2-2-3 [3-3-3] 4-4-4-5 skeins of C2 and 1-1-1 [1-1-1] 2-2-2-2 skeins of C3.
Yardage
C1: 700-740-790 [890-1000-1090]
1230-1300-1455-1595 yrds / 640-675-720 [815-915-995] 1120-1190-1330-1455 m,
C2: 390-410-435 [495-555-600]
680-720-805-880 yrds / 355-375-400 [450-505-550] 620-660-735-805 m,
C3: 130-135-145 [165-185-200]
225-240-270-295 yrds / 120-125-135 [150-170-185] 205-220-245-270 m.
Needles
US 3 (3.25 mm), US 4 (3.5 mm) and US
5 (3.75 mm) - 40’’ / 100 cm long circular needles and dpns in the biggest size
if you prefer to work the sleeves with them. Adjust needle size if necessary to
obtain the right gauge.
Gauge
20 sts x 28 rnds = 4x4’’ / 10x10 cm
in color work worked in the round on US 4 (3.5 mm) needles (after blocking).
Other
6 stitch markers, scrap yarn, E-4
(3.5 mm) crochet hook, tapestry needle.
Thistle is my very favorite! I cannot wait to work on this. Mary
ReplyDeleteSo happy to hear that!
DeleteI just ordered my copy!!! What size is the cardigan in the pics?
ReplyDeleteSize M2.
DeleteHaving trouble with the increasing in the front working the color work so it is correct on each side. Any help appreciated.
ReplyDeleteSend me email info@annajohannadesigns.com with more details (what size you're working, where are you having trouble etc.) and I can help you out.
DeleteHi there - where can i buy just the thistle pattern? I can't seem to purchase it from ravelry.
ReplyDeleteThe individual pattern PDFs will be available in February 2023.
DeleteHi, I’m having problems with this as when I join everything in the round everything gets twisted. I assume it’s because when I’ve undone the provisional cast on for the left and right shoulders I’m working in the opposite direction to the back and end up joining effectively the top middle of the back to the bottom of the shoulders. Have I misunderstood the pattern somewhere?
ReplyDeleteI am having the same problem.
Delete